Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Route: Silver Peak

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

  • Trailhead: FR 9070 intersection with PCT
  • Co-ordinates: 47.3635, -121.4225
  • Elevation:  2956 ft
  • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
  • Directions 

    • 1) Drive east along I-90 to Exit 54 ("Hyak" exit).
    • 2) At the first intersection (stop sign) located on the west side of I-90, continue straight (south). On the other side of the intersection, the road becomes known as Hyak Drive East.
    • 3) As the road winds through the Hyak ski area and then passes a wasterwater facility, Hyak Drive East becomes known as Forest Road 9070.
    • 4) Continue following Forest Road 9070 until its intersection with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). The PCT intersection is unmarked. However, for reference purposes, the PCT trail junction occurs approximately 5.5 miles from I-90, in a clearcut area at approximately 3800' elevation. The location of this trail junction is also known as Windy Pass.
    • 5) Park on the side of Forest Road 9070 wherever available, making certain no vehicles block the road.

  • I-90 Road Condition:   
  • Weather forecast
  • Avalanche danger forecast:  

Route Information: South Route

  • Gain: 2100 ft
  • Round Trip:  5.6 miles per WTA, 6.5 miles per summit post
  • Difficulty: 

Misc 

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Monday, July 17, 2017

Route:Sahale Peak - Quien Sabe Glacier (North Cascades)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

  • Trailhead: 
  • Address: Cascade River Rd, Marblemount, WA 98267
  • Elevation: 3,220 ft
  • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
  • Directions: 
    • Old Diamond Mine Road from Mountaineers: "Take I-5 to just north of Mount Vernon, then go east on SR 20 (North Cascades Highway) to Marblemount. Sign in at Ranger Station and get permit. Continue east on Cascade River Road about 21.7 mi to the old Diamond Mine Road (fork in road about 1.5 mi from the end of Cascade River Road, 3,220 ft). There is limited parking at the fork."
    • Cascade Pass Trailhead from SummitPost: "Drive North on I-5 until you get to Arlington which you take a right at exit 208 onto highway 530. The highway briefly takes a left in down town Arlington onto highway 9 which a few seconds later be sure to turn right back onto highway 530 east to Darrington. At Darrington where the road pretty much ends you take a left onto highway 530 which goes north. In about 19 miles the highway ends, take a right onto highway 20 towards Marblemount. In about 7.5 you arrive at the city of Marblemount. After passing a few gas stations the highway curves, be sure to go strait which goes onto the Cascade River Road. This road takes you all the way to the trailhead of Sahale (Cascade Pass trailhead) which is at Mile Marker 23. Keep in mind that after mile marker 10 the road becomes gravel and washes out almost every year at some point. The last 2 miles are paved but is a little steep. The trailhead itself has a nice oval shaped parking lot with a bathroom.":
  • Food
  • Road condition
  • Weather forecast
  • Avalanche danger forecast:  

Route Information: Quien Sabe Glacier

  • Gain: 5,780 ft
  • Round Trip:  10 miles
  • Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2
  • Season: July, August, September
  • Source: https://www.mountaineers.org/explore/routes-places/sahale-peak-quien-sabe-glacier
  • Existing tracks:  
  • Caltopo Route: https://caltopo.com/m/H6MC
  • Approach from Mountaineers: 
    • From the fork, walk about 1 mi on the old mine road to where the trail leaves the road sharply right and steeply up. Follow this steep, well worn, and obvious trail to Boston Basin. Camp in Boston Basin (6,200 ft).
  • Ascend from Mountaineers: 
    • The easier route follows the left side of the Quien Sabe Glacier to the top of the left side then traverses right along the base of the rock face below Sharkfin Tower. Continue traversing until the Glacier begins to steepen toward the Col.
    • The alternate ascent is significantly shorter and much more direct. Scramble from camp to the right side of the Glacier. Work through the crevasses of the lower section of the glacier (up to 45° and very exposed).
    • The two ascent routes merge about half way up the Quien Sabe Glacier to the Boston-Sahale Col. From the col traverse right to the summit. Take ice ax and crampons for short but exposed snow traverse on Col to summit block. Scramble loose rock to summit (class 3).

Misc 

  • Videos  (many more on youtube): 
  • Other Links: 
  • Notes: 
    • Water Sources: There is at least one tarn on the way up Sahale Arm, which you should definitely filter this water. On the way to Cascade Pass there are a few small creeks. If your willing to extend your trip, Doubtful Lake is another good source for water. Also if your lucky there may we water melting off of the Sahale Glacier near the bottom. And of course the remaining snow on the mountain.
    • Camping: For overnight Camping you need a Back Country Permit which are free of cost, but is based on a first come first serve bases and may run out. One can be obtained though most of the ranger stations in the North Cascades, the most common place to obtain one is in Marblemount. There is no camping at Cascade Pass because the National Park Service is trying to restore its fragile vegetation. The best camping place on the standard route is near the Sahale Glacier which is about 5.7 miles in (7,600 feet high). There are also some camp grounds along the Cascade River Road which the closest one is Johannesburg camp near the trailhead. For those going up the Quien Sabe route (Boston Basin) there is camping in the basin itself.
    • When to Climb: This peak is best done June though September. During the early season you have both avalanche danger and a longer approach to get to the mountain due to the road being snow covered. The snow pack plays a big roll in when the road is opened, it usually ranges from April to June. When ever it's gated off in early season its often closed at mile marker 20 which is 3 miles from the trailhead. If the snow pack is mild, you may consider bringing a bike for the way down.
    • Equipment: Standard glacier gear-fluke or picket in early season, screws in late season. A small rock rack for the summit may be useful.
  • Topo maps: CalTopo map.
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Thursday, July 6, 2017

Route: Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys (North Cascades)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

Route Information: Fisher Chimneys

  • Gain: 6,750 ft
  • Round Trip:  17 miles
  • Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb
  • Season: July, August
  • Source: https://www.mountaineers.org/explore/routes-places/mt-shuksan-fisher-chimneys
  • Existing tracks:  
  • Caltopo Route: https://caltopo.com/m/NAHQ
  • Route information from WTA: 
    • Approach: The first high camp is at 6400 ft. We took a break here, but moved up higher to a camp at ~7600 feet to give us an early start on the rib. There is a very large flat area here, perfect spot to spend the night if you’re up for the extra elevation. This camp also allows for more solitude than the lower camps, as we were the only group camped here. No running water so we melted snow, without filtering.
    • Climbing: We roped up and stayed on the west side of the glacier. The east side of the glacier is more heavily crevassed, but as of Sunday, there was a large distance (300-400 feet+) from the climbing route to any openings on the east side of the glacier. There is one large crevasse right at the top of Hell’s Highway, but it’s obvious and easily avoidable. We ascended to ~8600 ft and went to the obvious notch where the route begins. There's enough room for 6 people, I hip belayed my followers up to the notch. I transitioned to rock climbing but did not wear rock shoes. The SE rib is 5.4, positive handholds, and airy. 2 pitches with a 60 meter rope because we simul climbed it. I wish I owned tricams because those would have been helpful. I brought small nuts, small cams to 0.75, and 10 singles and 4 doubles.
    • Descent: From the summit there's an obvious rap station climbers left of the gully. But we scrambled down to the next rap station. 4 raps with a single 60 m should do it but we had two 60 m ropes so we were leap-frogging, sending the second rope with the second climber. The second rap traverses the gully and then the two other raps finish climber’s right of the gully. The fourth rap station we set up a double rope rappel to get us to safer ground. 

Misc 

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Wednesday, June 28, 2017

Route: Kaleetan Peak (I-90 Snoqualmie Pass)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

  • Trailhead: Denny Creek trailhead
  • Co-ordinates: 47.4154, -121.4433
  • Address: FS 5830, North Bend, WA 98045
  • Elevation:  2300 ft
  • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
  • Directions 
    • Mountaineers: "Take Exit 47, Denny Creek off of I-90. Turn left over freeway and then right on Denny Creek Road (Forest Road 58). Just past Denny Creek Campground, about 3 mi from leaving I-90, turn left onto Forest Road 5830 and drive to the trailhead."
  • I-90 Road Condition:   
  • Weather forecast
  • Avalanche danger forecast:  

Route Information: South Route

Misc 

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Saturday, June 24, 2017

Route: Eldorado Peak - Inspiration Glacier (North Cascades)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

  • Trailhead: the trailhead of Eldorado is at Mile Marker 20. Keep in mind that the last 10 miles of road is gravel and washes out almost every year at some point. The trailhead itself is on the right hand side and has a decent parking lot with a bathroom.
  • Co-ordinates: 48.4926980, -121.1221450
  • Address: Cascade River Rd
  • Elevation: 2,100 ft
  • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
  • Directions: WTA: "From I-5 Northbound: Take exit 208 for Highway 530. Take a left on highway 530 at Darrington. The highway ends in 19 miles, where you can take a right onto Highway 20 towards Marblemount. Pass through the last gas station in Marblemount go straight onto the Cascade River Road. After crossing the bridge, the road takes you all the way to the trailhead at Mile Marker 20.  The last 10 miles of road is gravel and washes out almost every year at some point. The trailhead itself is on the right. Privy at trailhead."
  • Food
  • Road condition
  • Weather forecast
  • Avalanche danger forecast:  

Route Information: Inspiration Glacier

  • Gain: 6,768 ft
  • Round Trip:  10 miles
  • Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2
  • Season: July, August, September
  • Source: https://www.mountaineers.org/explore/routes-places/eldorado-peak-inspiration-glacier
  • Existing tracks:  
  • Caltopo Route: https://caltopo.com/m/PK70
  • Approach from Mountaineers: 
    • From the parking area backtrack downstream about 90 feet on the road (look for possible flagging), looking for a clump of three trees crossing the river, or one large log. Cross the river and walk about 100 feet perpendicular to the river until you find a climbers' trail.
    • Go right, or east, upstream on trail. Proceed up and slightly right in open timber following climbers' trail. Stay to right (east) of large windfall and traverse up so that Eldorado Creek is within earshot. After about 1500 feet of elevation gain, reach talus slopes. Ascend talus (cairns and flags; do not cross Eldorado Creek) with large cliffs on the left. Ascend in he center of the talus field and into cliffs with a climbers' trail to upper boulder field.
    • Ascend up and right (east), picking up segments of fair-to-good way trails into a large basin at about 5,500-5,800 ft. Move up onto ridge on left to small, but level, camp spots (6,100 ft). Look for way to drop down into Roush Creek Basin—the best spot found north along ridge. Campsites in Roush Creek Basin between 6,100 and 6,400 ft.
  • Ascend from Mountaineers: 
    • From Roush Creek Basin, proceed up snowfields and Eldorado Glacier just left (west) of rocky ridge. Follow this to broad flat area of Inspiration Glacier at about 7,500 ft (there are good camps near the rocks). Traverse Inspiration Glacier around to north and follow broad snow covered ridge to top (8,868 ft). The summit ridge is a spectacular knife-edge of snow.

Misc 

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Friday, June 23, 2017

Route: Mount Adams/South Spur (South Cascades)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

Route Information: South Spur

Misc 

Notes
  • Camping site (From book Washington Scrambles)
    • Lunch Counter at 9400 ft
    • At 9050 ft to the left of the snowfield, where there is a water source
    • Timberline campground at 6300 ft in the Morrison Creek drainage
  •  MT Adams Ranger District:  
    • Address: 2455 Hwy 141, Trout Lake, WA 98650
    • Phone: (509) 395-3402
    • Office hour: Open daily Memorial Day through Labor Day 8:00 to 4:30.  Open fall, winter, and spring Monday- Friday.
  • There is a McDonald's before leaving I-84 for Trout Lake:  2101 Cascade Ave, Hood River, OR 97031
  • Mt. Adams Climbing Conditions Report
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Monday, June 12, 2017

rope team gear list

装备总结：
  1. harness
  2. carabiner （1 screwgate locking， 2-3 D shape locking， 2 non-locking）
  3. 30ft 5mm accessory cord (perlon)  (cut into small pieces for 2-3 prusiks， eg. 15'' hero loop, 22'' autoblock loop)
  4. 2 double runner/sling (for anchor and / or personal anchor)
  5. 30ft 7mm cordlette for anchor
  6. 36ft 1" tubular nylon webbing. (cut into 2x 9" piece, for anchor & rappelling, can leave behind for rappelling and just retrieve rope, or for emmergency diaper harness. Also cut 8ft piece for future chest harness. keep the rest)
Here's an example google sheet (found on line) with example links.

至于练习handline的装备，我这阵子比较忙，就在这里简单说一下吧。除了harness，首先是carabiner如下：

最上面的是大的梨形的carabiner, 买一个，可以用于紧急情况下的munter hitch belaying 和rappelling. 中间的locking carabiner 买2-3个（各种用途），下面的non-locking carabiner 买两个（running belay时可以用到）。

REI advice on how to choose carabiner。

装备：买5mm 或6mm 30ft的accessory cord,考虑到glacier travel时rope比较细，5mm比较好，如下图



可以cut 成小段的不同长短的，比如15" hero loop, 22" loop autoblock. 用刀子割开，用火烧一下端点就可。如果有hot knife 更好。rei 也可以帮你cut,告诉他们你要做2-3 prusik 就行了。每段用double fisherman knot连一起就是一个prusik啦，如下图。Texas prusik 以后再说吧。


装备：买2根double runner/sling,可以用于连anchor 和做personal anchor, 如下：（daisy chain用于缩短长度，便于携带）

装备：买一个6mm-7mm的cordlette用于做anchor,30ft 就行

上面7mm最好。


装备：买36ft 1" tubular nylon webbing. 让rei cut 两段9" piece, 用于anchor 和rappelling (可以leave behind for rappelling and just retrieve rope), 也可以紧急情况下做diaper harness. 再cut 8ft piece作为以后的chest harness. 其余的保留。如下图：


Webbing loop一般用water knot连接。特别情况下也可以用klemheist hitch做为one way prusik 用。而accessory cord 和cordlette 一般都用double fisherman knot连接。

至于必要的knots,比如overhand, prusik, double fisherman, water, figure 8，butterfly， bowline, girth hitch, clove hitch, 和munter hitch,我们wiki 上都有YouTube video 链接。自己练一下吧。有问题，我们见面再讨论。

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