Monday, July 17, 2017

Route:Sahale Peak - Quien Sabe Glacier (North Cascades)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

  • Trailhead: 
  • Address: Cascade River Rd, Marblemount, WA 98267
  • Elevation: 3,220 ft
  • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
  • Directions: 
    • Old Diamond Mine Road from Mountaineers: "Take I-5 to just north of Mount Vernon, then go east on SR 20 (North Cascades Highway) to Marblemount. Sign in at Ranger Station and get permit. Continue east on Cascade River Road about 21.7 mi to the old Diamond Mine Road (fork in road about 1.5 mi from the end of Cascade River Road, 3,220 ft). There is limited parking at the fork."
    • Cascade Pass Trailhead from SummitPost: "Drive North on I-5 until you get to Arlington which you take a right at exit 208 onto highway 530. The highway briefly takes a left in down town Arlington onto highway 9 which a few seconds later be sure to turn right back onto highway 530 east to Darrington. At Darrington where the road pretty much ends you take a left onto highway 530 which goes north. In about 19 miles the highway ends, take a right onto highway 20 towards Marblemount. In about 7.5 you arrive at the city of Marblemount. After passing a few gas stations the highway curves, be sure to go strait which goes onto the Cascade River Road. This road takes you all the way to the trailhead of Sahale (Cascade Pass trailhead) which is at Mile Marker 23. Keep in mind that after mile marker 10 the road becomes gravel and washes out almost every year at some point. The last 2 miles are paved but is a little steep. The trailhead itself has a nice oval shaped parking lot with a bathroom.":
  • Food
  • Road condition
  • Weather forecast
  • Avalanche danger forecast:  

Route Information: Quien Sabe Glacier

  • Gain: 5,780 ft
  • Round Trip:  10 miles
  • Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2
  • Season: July, August, September
  • Source: https://www.mountaineers.org/explore/routes-places/sahale-peak-quien-sabe-glacier
  • Existing tracks:  
  • Caltopo Route: https://caltopo.com/m/H6MC
  • Approach from Mountaineers: 
    • From the fork, walk about 1 mi on the old mine road to where the trail leaves the road sharply right and steeply up. Follow this steep, well worn, and obvious trail to Boston Basin. Camp in Boston Basin (6,200 ft).
  • Ascend from Mountaineers: 
    • The easier route follows the left side of the Quien Sabe Glacier to the top of the left side then traverses right along the base of the rock face below Sharkfin Tower. Continue traversing until the Glacier begins to steepen toward the Col.
    • The alternate ascent is significantly shorter and much more direct. Scramble from camp to the right side of the Glacier. Work through the crevasses of the lower section of the glacier (up to 45° and very exposed).
    • The two ascent routes merge about half way up the Quien Sabe Glacier to the Boston-Sahale Col. From the col traverse right to the summit. Take ice ax and crampons for short but exposed snow traverse on Col to summit block. Scramble loose rock to summit (class 3).

Misc 

  • Videos  (many more on youtube): 
  • Other Links: 
  • Notes: 
    • Water Sources: There is at least one tarn on the way up Sahale Arm, which you should definitely filter this water. On the way to Cascade Pass there are a few small creeks. If your willing to extend your trip, Doubtful Lake is another good source for water. Also if your lucky there may we water melting off of the Sahale Glacier near the bottom. And of course the remaining snow on the mountain.
    • Camping: For overnight Camping you need a Back Country Permit which are free of cost, but is based on a first come first serve bases and may run out. One can be obtained though most of the ranger stations in the North Cascades, the most common place to obtain one is in Marblemount. There is no camping at Cascade Pass because the National Park Service is trying to restore its fragile vegetation. The best camping place on the standard route is near the Sahale Glacier which is about 5.7 miles in (7,600 feet high). There are also some camp grounds along the Cascade River Road which the closest one is Johannesburg camp near the trailhead. For those going up the Quien Sabe route (Boston Basin) there is camping in the basin itself.
    • When to Climb: This peak is best done June though September. During the early season you have both avalanche danger and a longer approach to get to the mountain due to the road being snow covered. The snow pack plays a big roll in when the road is opened, it usually ranges from April to June. When ever it's gated off in early season its often closed at mile marker 20 which is 3 miles from the trailhead. If the snow pack is mild, you may consider bringing a bike for the way down.
    • Equipment: Standard glacier gear-fluke or picket in early season, screws in late season. A small rock rack for the summit may be useful.
  • Topo maps: CalTopo map.
Posted by at

No comments:

Post a Comment

Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)