Monday, June 12, 2017

rope team gear list

装备总结:
  1. harness
  2. carabiner (1 screwgate locking, 2-3 D shape locking, 2 non-locking)
  3. 30ft 5mm accessory cord (perlon)  (cut into small pieces for 2-3 prusiks, eg. 15'' hero loop, 22'' autoblock loop)
  4. 2 double runner/sling (for anchor and / or personal anchor)
  5. 30ft 7mm cordlette for anchor
  6. 36ft 1" tubular nylon webbing. (cut into 2x 9" piece, for anchor & rappelling, can leave behind for rappelling and just retrieve rope, or for emmergency diaper harness. Also cut 8ft piece for future chest harness. keep the rest)
Here's an example google sheet (found on line) with example links.

至于练习handline的装备,我这阵子比较忙,就在这里简单说一下吧。除了harness,首先是carabiner如下:

最上面的是大的梨形的carabiner, 买一个,可以用于紧急情况下的munter hitch belaying 和rappelling. 中间的locking carabiner 买2-3个(各种用途),下面的non-locking carabiner 买两个(running belay时可以用到)。

REI advice on how to choose carabiner。

装备:买5mm 或6mm 30ft的accessory cord,考虑到glacier travel时rope比较细,5mm比较好,如下图



可以cut 成小段的不同长短的,比如15" hero loop, 22" loop autoblock. 用刀子割开,用火烧一下端点就可。如果有hot knife 更好。rei 也可以帮你cut,告诉他们你要做2-3 prusik 就行了。每段用double fisherman knot连一起就是一个prusik啦,如下图。Texas prusik 以后再说吧。


装备:买2根double runner/sling,可以用于连anchor 和做personal anchor, 如下:(daisy chain用于缩短长度,便于携带)

装备:买一个6mm-7mm的cordlette用于做anchor,30ft 就行



上面7mm最好。


装备:买36ft 1" tubular nylon webbing. 让rei cut 两段9" piece, 用于anchor 和rappelling (可以leave behind for rappelling and just retrieve rope), 也可以紧急情况下做diaper harness. 再cut 8ft piece作为以后的chest harness. 其余的保留。如下图:


Webbing loop一般用water knot连接。特别情况下也可以用klemheist hitch做为one way prusik 用。而accessory cord 和cordlette 一般都用double fisherman knot连接。

至于必要的knots,比如overhand, prusik, double fisherman, water, figure 8,butterfly, bowline, girth hitch, clove hitch, 和munter hitch,我们wiki 上都有YouTube video 链接。自己练一下吧。有问题,我们见面再讨论。

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