Mount Stuart Climb Project: Route: Eldorado Peak - Inspiration Glacier (North Cascades)

Trailhead: the trailhead of Eldorado is at Mile Marker 20. Keep in mind that the last 10 miles of road is gravel and washes out almost every year at some point. The trailhead itself is on the right hand side and has a decent parking lot with a bathroom.
Co-ordinates: 48.4926980, -121.1221450
Address: Cascade River Rd
Elevation: 2,100 ft
Pass: Northwest Forest Pass
Directions: WTA: "From I-5 Northbound: Take exit 208 for Highway 530. Take a left on highway 530 at Darrington. The highway ends in 19 miles, where you can take a right onto Highway 20 towards Marblemount. Pass through the last gas station in Marblemount go straight onto the Cascade River Road. After crossing the bridge, the road takes you all the way to the trailhead at Mile Marker 20. The last 10 miles of road is gravel and washes out almost every year at some point. The trailhead itself is on the right. Privy at trailhead."
Food

Gain: 6,768 ft
Round Trip: 10 miles
Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2
Season: July, August, September
Source: https://www.mountaineers.org/explore/routes-places/eldorado-peak-inspiration-glacier
Existing tracks:

From the parking area backtrack downstream about 90 feet on the road (look for possible flagging), looking for a clump of three trees crossing the river, or one large log. Cross the river and walk about 100 feet perpendicular to the river until you find a climbers' trail.
Go right, or east, upstream on trail. Proceed up and slightly right in open timber following climbers' trail. Stay to right (east) of large windfall and traverse up so that Eldorado Creek is within earshot. After about 1500 feet of elevation gain, reach talus slopes. Ascend talus (cairns and flags; do not cross Eldorado Creek) with large cliffs on the left. Ascend in he center of the talus field and into cliffs with a climbers' trail to upper boulder field.
Ascend up and right (east), picking up segments of fair-to-good way trails into a large basin at about 5,500-5,800 ft. Move up onto ridge on left to small, but level, camp spots (6,100 ft). Look for way to drop down into Roush Creek Basin—the best spot found north along ridge. Campsites in Roush Creek Basin between 6,100 and 6,400 ft.

From Roush Creek Basin, proceed up snowfields and Eldorado Glacier just left (west) of rocky ridge. Follow this to broad flat area of Inspiration Glacier at about 7,500 ft (there are good camps near the rocks). Traverse Inspiration Glacier around to north and follow broad snow covered ridge to top (8,868 ft). The summit ridge is a spectacular knife-edge of snow.

high camp (7500')
Finding the log crossing at the parking lot, and the climber's trail on the other side, is very important.
The glacier may remain passable through September, making this a good late season climb.
Eldorado Peak is occasionally climbed as part of the Inspiration- Mcallister-Klawatti Ice Cap Traverse
From WTA report: "The log crossings are straight forward. The first 1800' feet through the woods is very muddy and slippery. The trail is straight up. Then the boulder field which is snow free until around 5500. At the end is a water source that we drank untreated. After the boulder field the basin is full of snow, which makes the crossing onto the Eldorado Glacier a little tricky. Once on the glacier we only saw two crevasses on the climb to base camp at 7400'. Once on the knife edge, the boot path walked along the left hand side, there was a 3 foot tall ledge to climb onto. Once on top the summit was about 3 feet wide by 15 feet long with sheer drops on each side."

Mount Stuart Climb Project