Mount Stuart Climb Project: Route: Mount Thomson (Thompson) / West Ridge (I-90 Snoqualmie Pass)


PCT Trailhead

Mountaineers: "Drive I-90 east from Seattle to Exit 52, Snoqualmie Pass. Turn left then make the first right on the paved road to the parking area of the Pacific Crest Trail"

Gain: 3,500 ft
Round Trip: 20 miles
Activity: Intermediate Rock Climb
Difficulty: 5.6, 6-7 pitches
Season: May, June, July, August, September, October
Source: https://www.mountaineers.org/activities/routes-places/mount-thompson-west-ridgpe
Existing tracks:

This is an interminably long approach that takes the Pacific Crest Trail the entire way to the jump-off point. From the parking lot, hike the trail for 2.2 miles to the Red Mountain Trail junction (3,800 ft). Go right (uphill) and continue for 3.5 miles to Kendall Katwalk (5,400 ft) at the eastern head of Commonwealth Creek.
From Kendall Katwalk continue northeast on the trail, passing Ridge Lake (5,260 ft) in another mile. About 0.4 miles past Ridge Lake where the trail contours the south side of a long slope above Alaska Lake look for a short but steep side-trail (can be missed if not looking) leading up to Bumblebee Pass (the 5,400-ft pass east of Pt. 5928). Descend the other side of the pass (bring ice-axe in early season) to the basin south of Mt. Thomson.

Standard way to descend is down the East Ridge (class 4). We stayed on the ridge crest until we got to a gendarme on the ridge. We then moved right and down. There were rap slings around a tree but the terrain below looked easy enough to downclimb. Rapping would probably be faster though as the downclimb was more hairy than expected. More class 3 down scrambling brings you to another steeper section (again, it's probably a good idea for most to rap here). It's realtively smooth sailing after that as you reach a broad slope with lots of vegetation and a climbers' path heading down and right toward the basin. Just follow the climbers' path past the first "tower" and it'll take you down the scree slopes to the bottom of the Basin. Hike back up to Bumblebee Pass.

A light traditional rack (nuts and cams up to perhaps 3 inches) is all you will need. Bring a helmet. Single rope will do esp. if you're planning on the standard, East Ridge descent. The climbing is not sustained and most of the time you're running it out anyway on class 3-4 terrain.

Some loose holds on the ascent, teams following should wait until the next team is above. Descent rather unpleasant scree.
The two rappels are easy enough to find, first one is about 15 meters long, while the second is 20-25. I wouldn't recommend doing a double rope rappel due to all the loose rock.
Rope drag was a problem on pitch 2 and 3, bring doubles. The rock can be a bit loose.

Mount Stuart Climb Project