Sunday, October 1, 2017

Route: Liberty Bell - Beckey Route / SW Face (North Cascades)

Mountain Information:

 Driving Directions:



Route Information: Beckey Route / SW Face












  • Approach from Mountaineers: 
    • Follow the Blue Lake Trail about 1.5 miles to a small meadow. Locate the climbers path left, just after a small stream. Follow path up through slabs, talus and meadow to below the gully descending from between Liberty Bell and Concord Tower. The path splits. Keep left, heading up to the Liberty Bell Concord Tower notch, 7,300 ft. The gully is usually snow filled and can be icy until late June. Rockfall is high after snow melt.
  • Ascend from Mountaineers: 
    • From the tree about 30 feet below the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord Tower the first pitch begins. Traverse left and up a low fifth class gully, chimney past ledges and small trees to a belay at the base of a steeper chimney.
    • The second pitch climbs a 5.5 chimney to large ledge. A excellent variation for the second pitch avoids the chimney and takes face climbing (5.6) left and then up to rejoin the standard route at the start of Pitch 3.
    • The third pitch climbs low angle rock to a small roof where a finger tip traverse to the left (5.6) leads around the roof. Continue up and right on friction and a lay back crack around the corner to a ledge and good belay station.
    • The final pitch begins with a 20-foot friction slab, 5.5. A short scramble leads to the summit.
  •  Descend from Mountaineers:
    • From the summit, down climb and/or rappel the route until about 200 feet below the summit. Turn left (east) and downclimb through trees and loose rocks about 100 feet. Bear right, looking right across an exposed sloping ledge, two rappel bolts can be located on the steep wall. One double rope rappel or two single rope rappels reach the Liberty Bell-Concord notch.
  • Summary
    • Trailhead to Notch 2 hrs 2,100ft
    • Notch to Summit 2-4 hrs 420ft
    • Summit to Trailhead 3 hrs  

Misc 

  • Notes: 
    • “The Beckey Route” (also called South West Face) on Liberty Bell is the most famous climb in the Liberty Bell Group and a alpine classic. It is a well sustained 5.7 climb and, as the name suggests, pioneered by climber Fred Beckey. 
    • Lots of traffic on the approach and  on the route. Be careful of loose material in the gully. 
    • SummitPost route Description: 
      • Pitch #1: Ascend up an easy chimney (5.3) or to the left on a face with several spots for good protection (5.5). At the top of this, ascend some 5.0 slabs just past a small tree to the base of a harder chimney on your left. 80 feet.
      • pitch #2: Climb up the 50 foot high 5.6 chimney then ascend up some 4th class slabs until you run out of rope. Establish a gear belay below the section with the chockstone. 130 feet.
      • Pitch #3: Climb up to below the chockstone then traverse to your left by moving your fingers as far over as you can in a horizontal hand crack. Now make a long step over unto good foot holds (avoids the 5.6 move). If you smear and grab it is 5.6. Continue up and to your right on an easy 5.4 crack. Establish a belay below the crackless slab. 110 feet.
      • Pitch #4 - Climb up the 12 foot high 5.6 friction slab moving up and to the left. There is a pocket in the bottom right hand corner for a bomber pink #.5 tricam placement. Belay your partner up. 40 feet.
      • Scramble 4th class slabs up to the summit. The rap route is directly down to the high point of the notch. It can be done in 2 sections with 2 60 meter ropes. There is some 3rd class downclimbing between the stations. Move down and to the west to find the second set of rap slings. There are also intermediate rap stations, so only 1 rope can be used.
      • With a single 60m rope: To get to the first rappel station down climb a short section from the summit towards west and on your left you will see slings on a tree. From here you can rappel to the second station. This rappel avoids the class 3 down climb described in Beckey's CAG. The second rappel station has two good bolts on solid rock. From here rappel to the third station. There are actually two trees with slings, the higher one being the better one. From here you can rappel somewhat diagonally to the notch between Concord Tower and Liberty Bell.
      • Essential gears: Cams .4 to 3 inches, Set of nuts, 6-8 24" slings, 2 48" slings for natural pro, 50 or 60 meter rope. 
    • To reach the climb (~2.5mi), hike up the Blue Lake trail until it breaks into a small meadow and begins to curl east toward the lake. Branch off left on a climbers trail that ascends boulder strewn terrain to the base of the gully between Liberty Bell and Concord tower. Ascend the gully to the prominent notch between Liberty Bell and Concord. This gully is loose and unpleasant; be extremely careful of parties above and below you and wear a helmet if you are ascending beneath someone. The start of the Beckey route is about 30' below the notch. Look for a small ledge leading left and traverse it to the base of a blocky chimney. This is the start of the first pitch.
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Friday, September 29, 2017

Route: Tower Mountain & Golden Horn (North Cascades)

Mountain Information:

I) Golden Horn

2) Tower Mountain

Driving Directions:



Route Information: South Ridge
  • Approach from Mountaineers: 
    • Hike north on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) from Rainy Pass, through Cutthroat and Granite Passes and past Tower Mountain to 6,300 ft. Turn right and ascend to Snowy Lakes and good campsites at 6,700 ft.
  • Ascend from Mountaineers:  Tower Mountain and Golden Horn may be climbed in either order.  Just be sure to stay high in the Snowy Lakes basin when traveling from one to the other.
    • Ascend to the notch in the west ridge of Tower Mountain. Scramble towards the west face until a traverse leads to a narrow gully marked by a gendarme on its left. Scramble this gully to a notch in the ridge and then follow a ramp system in a broad gully. When the gully narrows, climb a smooth slab and then onto a ledge that leads to the ridge. Climb over blocks and a short chimney to a corner and then more block to the summit.
    • Hike to Snowy Lakes at 6,700 ft and continue roughly northwest towards Golden Horn. Ascend a gully and talus to near the summit.  Class 3 scrambling leads to the summit.

Misc 

  • Notes: 
    • Not recommended for large parties over 6 because of rockfall danger. Groups of 6 or more should split up and climb separate peaks.
    • There are excellent campsites along the PCT and especially at the Snowy Lakes area right at the base of the mountain.
    • There is no need for a backcountry permit because this peak is not located in the North Cascades National Park.
    • Most folks climb this peak July though October. It can be done in May-June but may be snowy at the top making the summit more difficult. The road is closed at least half the year making it important to check the road conditions before climbing this peak. During summer it's usually open. Late September and early October is prime time to be here considering the golden larches are at their peak.
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Thursday, September 21, 2017

Route: Mount Stuart - West Ridge Carryover to Cascadian Couloir (Central Cascades)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

  • Trailhead: 
    • Address: Cle Elum, WA 98922
    • Elevation: 4,300 ft
    • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
    • Direction:  "Drive on I-90 to about 1 mi east Cle Elum, then go northeast on SR 970 about 5 mi to 0.5 mi past the Teanaway River Bridge. Turn left on the Teanaway River Road and continue 23 mi to the road end parking area at 4,243 ft, about 1 mi beyond the DeRoux Campground (Forest Road 9737). Car camping is available at the DeRoux Campground and other campgrounds on the Teanaway River Road"

Route Information: West Ridge & Cascadian Couloir

  • Gain: 5,250 ft
  • Round Trip:  15-18 miles
  • Activity: Rock Climbing
  • Difficulty: Intermediate Rock Climb
  • Season: May, June, July, August, September 
  • Mountaineers Route Description 
  • Key data: 
    • Trailhead to Climb  2,500ft
    • Climb to Long John Tower 1,000ft
    • Long John Tower to West Rib Notch 350ft
    • West Rib Notch to Summit 400ft
    • Summit to Trailhead 1,000ft
  • Existing tracks:  
  • Caltopo Route: https://caltopo.com/m/NU11 
  • Route Photos from trip reports: 
West Ridge Route

Cascadian Couloir

West Ridge Route 2

West Ridge Route Variation


stuart0004.JPG
Beginning of the West Ridge Route


The Air Step

Long John Tower
stuart0005.JPG
West Ridge Notch



Longs pass to Cascadian Couloir

Long John Tower 2
Route Section 1
Route Section 2
Carryover Route
Cascadian Couloir to False Summit
Cascadian Couloir Route

Mt Stuart Summit





Misc 

  • Notes: 
    • This athletic climb is largely scrambling on a huge granite massif. Fast efficient parties who travel light are favored. Routefinding dilemmas tend to occur at Long John Tower, at exposed section of West Ridge Notch, and in descent (not staying right). Snow patches along the route should be utilized for drinking water.
    • Large rats, also known as, snafflehounds, inhabit the summit bivy area, so be careful about anything (including boots) with salt on it; they will try to eat it. Most of route is traveled unroped. The key to this climb is traveling light. Contact Leavenworth Ranger Station for updated backcountry regulations for the area.
    • Use caution on the slopes below false summit - steep snow early in the year and loose rock later in the year.
    • On the way down Cascadian, you could take the Cascadian Cutoff trail which helped bypass some of the final few hundred feet of choss. Look for this trail about a 1000 ft above the creek, on skier's right in the meadows.
    • Bivy Sites: There are bivy sites at 7680, 8200 before LJT, and just above LJT, then again below WR notch, and at the summit. 8200 bivy had a reachable snow patch as of 8/20/2016 that was about 50 feet below on the north side of the ridge. Depending on the weather, it might become unreachable. The 8200' bivy can fit about 6 people (4 bivy sites - 2, 2, 1, 1). the sites are around the top of the ridge on the left, before the class 4 exit gully on the right that gets one to the notch from where the downclimb for the base of the LJT starts.
    • Climbing Gears: Mountaineers climbed the route in approach shoes, with a 30m rope, BD cams #0.3 to #2, set of nuts, 6 shoulder slings and 4 double slings.
    • Water: It was reported that everyone carried 3-4 liters of water and that was sufficient until they reached Ingalls Creek at the bottom of Cascadian C. 
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Saturday, September 16, 2017

Route: Del Campo Peak (Mountain Loop Highway)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

  • Trailhead: Gothic Basin Trailhead
  • Co-ordinates: 48.025833, -121.443732
  • Address: Monte Cristo Trail, Granite Falls, WA 98252
  • Elevation:  2,360 ft
  • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
  • Directions 
    • SummitPost: "Follow the Mountain Loop Highway from Granite Falls 30 miles, all the way to Barlow Pass (elevation 2400 feet), right across the street from the Goat Lake trail head. Park near the pullout and gate. Hike the Monte Cristo Road for about one mile (please see the red tape section wash-out details) to the South Fork Sauk River crossing where the Weden Creek Trail (FST 724) begins. Some folks will prefer to use a bicycle on this old road."
  • Weather forecast
  • Avalanche danger forecast:  

Route Information: Foggy Lake

Peaks and Pass
Route Info
Standard Route
Route variations

Another Variation
Gothic - Del Campo Traverse

 Misc 

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