Friday, September 29, 2017

Route: Tower Mountain & Golden Horn (North Cascades)

Mountain Information:

I) Golden Horn

2) Tower Mountain

Driving Directions:



Route Information: South Ridge











  • Approach from Mountaineers: 
    • Hike north on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) from Rainy Pass, through Cutthroat and Granite Passes and past Tower Mountain to 6,300 ft. Turn right and ascend to Snowy Lakes and good campsites at 6,700 ft.
  • Ascend from Mountaineers:  Tower Mountain and Golden Horn may be climbed in either order.  Just be sure to stay high in the Snowy Lakes basin when traveling from one to the other.
    • Ascend to the notch in the west ridge of Tower Mountain. Scramble towards the west face until a traverse leads to a narrow gully marked by a gendarme on its left. Scramble this gully to a notch in the ridge and then follow a ramp system in a broad gully. When the gully narrows, climb a smooth slab and then onto a ledge that leads to the ridge. Climb over blocks and a short chimney to a corner and then more block to the summit.
    • Hike to Snowy Lakes at 6,700 ft and continue roughly northwest towards Golden Horn. Ascend a gully and talus to near the summit.  Class 3 scrambling leads to the summit.

Misc 

  • Notes: 
    • Not recommended for large parties over 6 because of rockfall danger. Groups of 6 or more should split up and climb separate peaks.
    • There are excellent campsites along the PCT and especially at the Snowy Lakes area right at the base of the mountain.
    • There is no need for a backcountry permit because this peak is not located in the North Cascades National Park.
    • Most folks climb this peak July though October. It can be done in May-June but may be snowy at the top making the summit more difficult. The road is closed at least half the year making it important to check the road conditions before climbing this peak. During summer it's usually open. Late September and early October is prime time to be here considering the golden larches are at their peak.

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