Wednesday, June 28, 2017

Route: Kaleetan Peak (I-90 Snoqualmie Pass)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

  • Trailhead: Denny Creek trailhead
  • Co-ordinates: 47.4154, -121.4433
  • Address: FS 5830, North Bend, WA 98045
  • Elevation:  2300 ft
  • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
  • Directions 
    • Mountaineers: "Take Exit 47, Denny Creek off of I-90. Turn left over freeway and then right on Denny Creek Road (Forest Road 58). Just past Denny Creek Campground, about 3 mi from leaving I-90, turn left onto Forest Road 5830 and drive to the trailhead."
  • I-90 Road Condition:   
  • Weather forecast
  • Avalanche danger forecast:  

Route Information: South Route

Misc 

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Saturday, June 24, 2017

Route: Eldorado Peak - Inspiration Glacier (North Cascades)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

  • Trailhead: the trailhead of Eldorado is at Mile Marker 20. Keep in mind that the last 10 miles of road is gravel and washes out almost every year at some point. The trailhead itself is on the right hand side and has a decent parking lot with a bathroom.
  • Co-ordinates: 48.4926980, -121.1221450
  • Address: Cascade River Rd
  • Elevation: 2,100 ft
  • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
  • Directions: WTA: "From I-5 Northbound: Take exit 208 for Highway 530. Take a left on highway 530 at Darrington. The highway ends in 19 miles, where you can take a right onto Highway 20 towards Marblemount. Pass through the last gas station in Marblemount go straight onto the Cascade River Road. After crossing the bridge, the road takes you all the way to the trailhead at Mile Marker 20.  The last 10 miles of road is gravel and washes out almost every year at some point. The trailhead itself is on the right. Privy at trailhead."
  • Food
  • Road condition
  • Weather forecast
  • Avalanche danger forecast:  

Route Information: Inspiration Glacier

  • Gain: 6,768 ft
  • Round Trip:  10 miles
  • Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2
  • Season: July, August, September
  • Source: https://www.mountaineers.org/explore/routes-places/eldorado-peak-inspiration-glacier
  • Existing tracks:  
  • Caltopo Route: https://caltopo.com/m/PK70
  • Approach from Mountaineers: 
    • From the parking area backtrack downstream about 90 feet on the road (look for possible flagging), looking for a clump of three trees crossing the river, or one large log. Cross the river and walk about 100 feet perpendicular to the river until you find a climbers' trail.
    • Go right, or east, upstream on trail. Proceed up and slightly right in open timber following climbers' trail. Stay to right (east) of large windfall and traverse up so that Eldorado Creek is within earshot. After about 1500 feet of elevation gain, reach talus slopes. Ascend talus (cairns and flags; do not cross Eldorado Creek) with large cliffs on the left. Ascend in he center of the talus field and into cliffs with a climbers' trail to upper boulder field.
    • Ascend up and right (east), picking up segments of fair-to-good way trails into a large basin at about 5,500-5,800 ft. Move up onto ridge on left to small, but level, camp spots (6,100 ft). Look for way to drop down into Roush Creek Basin—the best spot found north along ridge. Campsites in Roush Creek Basin between 6,100 and 6,400 ft.
  • Ascend from Mountaineers: 
    • From Roush Creek Basin, proceed up snowfields and Eldorado Glacier just left (west) of rocky ridge. Follow this to broad flat area of Inspiration Glacier at about 7,500 ft (there are good camps near the rocks). Traverse Inspiration Glacier around to north and follow broad snow covered ridge to top (8,868 ft). The summit ridge is a spectacular knife-edge of snow.

Misc 

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Friday, June 23, 2017

Route: Mount Adams/South Spur (South Cascades)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

Route Information: South Spur

Misc 

Notes
  • Camping site (From book Washington Scrambles)
    • Lunch Counter at 9400 ft
    • At 9050 ft to the left of the snowfield, where there is a water source
    • Timberline campground at 6300 ft in the Morrison Creek drainage
  •  MT Adams Ranger District:  
    • Address: 2455 Hwy 141, Trout Lake, WA 98650
    • Phone: (509) 395-3402
    • Office hour: Open daily Memorial Day through Labor Day 8:00 to 4:30.  Open fall, winter, and spring Monday- Friday.
  • There is a McDonald's before leaving I-84 for Trout Lake:  2101 Cascade Ave, Hood River, OR 97031
  • Mt. Adams Climbing Conditions Report
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Monday, June 12, 2017

rope team gear list

装备总结：
  1. harness
  2. carabiner （1 screwgate locking， 2-3 D shape locking， 2 non-locking）
  3. 30ft 5mm accessory cord (perlon)  (cut into small pieces for 2-3 prusiks， eg. 15'' hero loop, 22'' autoblock loop)
  4. 2 double runner/sling (for anchor and / or personal anchor)
  5. 30ft 7mm cordlette for anchor
  6. 36ft 1" tubular nylon webbing. (cut into 2x 9" piece, for anchor & rappelling, can leave behind for rappelling and just retrieve rope, or for emmergency diaper harness. Also cut 8ft piece for future chest harness. keep the rest)
Here's an example google sheet (found on line) with example links.

至于练习handline的装备，我这阵子比较忙，就在这里简单说一下吧。除了harness，首先是carabiner如下：

最上面的是大的梨形的carabiner, 买一个，可以用于紧急情况下的munter hitch belaying 和rappelling. 中间的locking carabiner 买2-3个（各种用途），下面的non-locking carabiner 买两个（running belay时可以用到）。

REI advice on how to choose carabiner。

装备：买5mm 或6mm 30ft的accessory cord,考虑到glacier travel时rope比较细，5mm比较好，如下图



可以cut 成小段的不同长短的，比如15" hero loop, 22" loop autoblock. 用刀子割开，用火烧一下端点就可。如果有hot knife 更好。rei 也可以帮你cut,告诉他们你要做2-3 prusik 就行了。每段用double fisherman knot连一起就是一个prusik啦，如下图。Texas prusik 以后再说吧。


装备：买2根double runner/sling,可以用于连anchor 和做personal anchor, 如下：（daisy chain用于缩短长度，便于携带）

装备：买一个6mm-7mm的cordlette用于做anchor,30ft 就行

上面7mm最好。


装备：买36ft 1" tubular nylon webbing. 让rei cut 两段9" piece, 用于anchor 和rappelling (可以leave behind for rappelling and just retrieve rope), 也可以紧急情况下做diaper harness. 再cut 8ft piece作为以后的chest harness. 其余的保留。如下图：


Webbing loop一般用water knot连接。特别情况下也可以用klemheist hitch做为one way prusik 用。而accessory cord 和cordlette 一般都用double fisherman knot连接。

至于必要的knots,比如overhand, prusik, double fisherman, water, figure 8，butterfly， bowline, girth hitch, clove hitch, 和munter hitch,我们wiki 上都有YouTube video 链接。自己练一下吧。有问题，我们见面再讨论。

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Saturday, June 10, 2017

Route: Sloan Peak - Corkscrew Route

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

  • Trailhead: 
  • Address: Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, Gold Bar, WA 98251
  • Elevation:  1840 ft
  • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
  • Directions
    • Mountaineers: "Drive north on I-5 and take exit to Granite Falls (SR 92 from Marysville or SR 9 from I-405). Drive through Granite Falls on Mountain Loop Highway towards Barlow Pass. Take Forest Road 4096 4 mi to Bedal Creek Trail (Trail No. 705), 2,800 ft.   (Alternate route via North Fork Saul (Forsest Road 49) is described in the notes below) has been more popular in 2012 and 2013.)"
    • SummitPost: "From Granite Falls take the Mountain Loop Highway to Barlow Pass (32 miles), then drive 7 miles to the North Fork Sauk River Road. Take this road 4.5 miles to a pullout (approx. 1900 feet). Follow flagging and trail for 1/2 mile to a crossing of the North Fork of the Sauk River. Be careful here in early season or late in the day."
    • WTA: "From Darrington, drive south on the Mountain Loop Highway (SR 503) for 16.3 miles. Turn east (right) on Sloan Creek Road (Road 49). Continue 4.5 miles to the trailhead on your right." 
    • WTA: "Take exit 208 off I-5 and drive four miles east on the Mountain Loop Highway (SR 530) to Arlington. Continue on 530 for 28 miles more to Darrington. At a three way stop turn right (south) onto Mountain Loop Highway, and continue 17.2 miles turning left on FR 4096 which is about a mile past Bedal campground. Continue on FR 4096 for two miles to the trailhead."
  • Highway 2 Road Condition:   
  • Weather forecast
  • Avalanche danger forecast:  

Route Information: Corkscrew Route

  • Approach and Ascent: 
    • Hike the trail to 3,560 ft (1.2 mi), just before a major side stream. Head up slope in the trees. At around 4,500 ft a minor flat area is reached. Follow it toward the 5,300 ft saddle between Bedal Peak and Sloan Peak. Just before reaching the open area (drainage), ascend in the trees to 4,800 ft. Then up to approximately 5,000 ft in brushy areas.
    • At around 5,000 ft traverse the open/bushy slope to the timber to the saddle (pass by the small lake). Head up to the base of the Glacier. Camp on the saddle at 5,330 ft or on ridge overlooking the glacier at 5,800 ft. Be prepared to camp on snow through June.
    • Descend to glacier. Head southwest for the obvious corner where the left skyline of the summit massif joins the east ridge. Keep high (right) on the glacier, then ascend left to within 100 ft of the east rock face. Watch for evidence of rock fall from the face and move to the left if necessary.
    • Later in the season, it may be necessary to drop down lower on the glacier to avoid major crevasses. From the corner, follow a rock and heather covered shelf on an obvious goat/climber trail, high across the entire south face, around the corner and partway to the west face, to a prominent gully. Ascend straight up gully to its top at the ridge crest. Move east (left) just below the ridge, go up a short steep step (class 4), and scramble 200-300 ft to summit. 

Misc 

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