Study: rope team and knots technique

Gears

• 6 Non-Locking carabiners [footnote 2]
• 4 locking carabiners
• 1 belay size locking carabiners
• Harness with belay loop
• Hero Loop [footnote 3]
• Autoblock [footnote 3]
• Texas Prusiks (seat & foot) [footnote 3]
• Personal safety anchar
• (4) double runners [footnote 4]
• (1) sewn double runner
• Cordelette (7mm nylon ~20feet)
• Chest Harness [footnote 5]
• Climbing Helmet
• Belay/Rappel device [footnote 6]
• Ice Axe with leash
• Crampons with anti-balling plates
• Petzl Mini Prusik Minding Pulley
• Chock Pick
• Picket (24'')

- picket

- prusik minding pulley

Pulley有更小的，注意一定要prusik minding的那种。

More details see previous post rope team gear list.

Knots & Rope

belaying方法，top rope(比如gym)用的是PBUS，如下：https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCUJrXSKWrw，而alpine用的很多是SSS,类似leaderbelaying：https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvEQrKOtUZg，不要弄混了。 

介绍knots的YouTubevideos很多，大家要用批评的眼光来看是不是正确。

除了我上次介绍的mountaineers的一个seminar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7E1M_PAwQs

Detailed breakdown link of the Sierra Mountaineers Seminar:

• Knot Terminologyhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=4m9s
• Overhand knothttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=5m21s
• Girth Hitchhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=5m48s
• Clove Hitchhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=7m3s
• Figure 8 on a bighthttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=9m58s
• Butterfly knothttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=16m50s
• Prusik hitchhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=18m45s
• Klemheist hitchhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=21m40s
• Autoblockhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=24m10s
• Taughtline hitchhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=25m27s
• Bowlinehttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=28m50s
• Grapevine/Double Fishermanshttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=31m56s
• Ring Bend/Water knothttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=36m44s
• Overhand Bendhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=38m30s
• Belay Tie Offhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=40m1s
• Munter hitchhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=43m17s
• The Mulehttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=46m13s
• MMO (Munter + Mule + Overnhand)https://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=49m16s
• Kiwi Coilhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=49m41s

还有个knot of the week channel: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCWAuQxWjXKBQ8f5XBNHxgnz9H8_RfCIS大家可以看看。knots有不同的方法，找到自己喜欢的方式并stick with it就可以了。最好练到成本能的反应。

• 另外这里有个glacier climbing and crevasse rescue的seminar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3uu2AtWJp8

• Knots: https://m.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Knots%3FActivityName%3DRock-climbing
• Animated knots:  http://www.animatedknots.com/indexclimbing.php
• Rope management - butterfly coils: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppYanQ5DDPM
• take in rope with kiwi coil: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmBafmArn-8 
• 还有更复杂一点的方法（仅供参考）：https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSh7CO5PTVA
• Glacier travel rope tie-in 
• middle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwapFZriZbM, 
• end: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xdlXt94Lz0
• Tacoma Mountaineers Z-Pulley 演示：https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2V1-lJIIE78
• Texas prusik technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWH3lnnl0ro

General Climbing Gears