Study: rope team and knots technique

Gears

• 6 Non-Locking carabiners [footnote 2]
• 4 locking carabiners
• 1 belay size locking carabiners
• Harness with belay loop
• Hero Loop [footnote 3]
• Autoblock [footnote 3]
• Texas Prusiks (seat & foot) [footnote 3]
• Personal safety anchar
• (4) double runners [footnote 4]
• (1) sewn double runner
• Cordelette (7mm nylon ~20feet)
• Chest Harness [footnote 5]
• Climbing Helmet
• Belay/Rappel device [footnote 6]
• Ice Axe with leash
• Crampons with anti-balling plates
• Petzl Mini Prusik Minding Pulley
• Chock Pick
• Picket (24'')

- picket

- prusik minding pulley

Pulley有更小的，注意一定要prusik minding的那种。

More details see previous post rope team gear list.

Knots & Rope

belaying方法，top rope(比如gym)用的是PBUS，如下：https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCUJrXSKWrw，而alpine用的很多是SSS,类似leaderbelaying：https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvEQrKOtUZg，不要弄混了。 

介绍knots的YouTubevideos很多，大家要用批评的眼光来看是不是正确。

除了我上次介绍的mountaineers的一个seminar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7E1M_PAwQs

Detailed breakdown link of the Sierra Mountaineers Seminar:

• Knot Terminologyhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=4m9s
• Overhand knothttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=5m21s
• Girth Hitchhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=5m48s
• Clove Hitchhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=7m3s
• Figure 8 on a bighthttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=9m58s
• Butterfly knothttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=16m50s
• Prusik hitchhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=18m45s
• Klemheist hitchhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=21m40s
• Autoblockhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=24m10s
• Taughtline hitchhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=25m27s
• Bowlinehttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=28m50s
• Grapevine/Double Fishermanshttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=31m56s
• Ring Bend/Water knothttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=36m44s
• Overhand Bendhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=38m30s
• Belay Tie Offhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=40m1s
• Munter hitchhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=43m17s
• The Mulehttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=46m13s
• MMO (Munter + Mule + Overnhand)https://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=49m16s
• Kiwi Coilhttps://youtu.be/y7E1M_PAwQs?t=49m41s

还有个knot of the week channel: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCWAuQxWjXKBQ8f5XBNHxgnz9H8_RfCIS大家可以看看。knots有不同的方法，找到自己喜欢的方式并stick with it就可以了。最好练到成本能的反应。

• 另外这里有个glacier climbing and crevasse rescue的seminar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3uu2AtWJp8

• Knots: https://m.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Knots%3FActivityName%3DRock-climbing
• Animated knots:  http://www.animatedknots.com/indexclimbing.php
• Rope management - butterfly coils: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppYanQ5DDPM
• take in rope with kiwi coil: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmBafmArn-8 
• 还有更复杂一点的方法（仅供参考）：https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSh7CO5PTVA
• Glacier travel rope tie-in 
• middle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwapFZriZbM, 
• end: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xdlXt94Lz0
• Tacoma Mountaineers Z-Pulley 演示：https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2V1-lJIIE78
• Texas prusik technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWH3lnnl0ro

General Climbing Gears

Route: Mount Hood - South Side (Hogsback) (South Cascades)

Mountain Information:

• Name: Mount Hood
• Region:  South Cascades
• Summit Elevation: 11239 ft / 3426 m
• SummitPost Link: 
• Mount Hood
• South Side (Hogsback)
• Peakbagger Link: 
• http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=2382
• MountProject Link:  
• https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105792904/south-side-route

• Mountaineers Link:
• https://www.mountaineers.org/explore/routes-places/mount-hood-south-side

• Mount Hood Climb Information:
• CLIMBING MOUNT HOOD

• Forest Service:
• Keypoints to know before the climb
• Climbing Mount Hood & Summiting
• Mt Hood Detailed Climbing Information
• Ranger Stations

Driving Directions:

• Trailhead: Timberline Lodge Trailheads
• Co-ordinates: 45.3316328,-121.7144179
• Address: Government Camp, OR 97028
• Elevation: 5,924 ft
• Pass:  wilderness permit
• Directions: Mountaineers: "Take I-5 to approximately 15 mi north of the Oregon state line to I-205 bypass around Portland to US 26. Travel east on US 26 for about 50 mi. Just past Government Camp turn left at Timberline Lodge turnoff. Drive 8 mi and park in lodge parking lot."
• Weather forecast
• Mountain Forecast
• South Climb Weather  
• Weather Condition
• NOAA Forecast for Timberline Lodge
• NOAA Mt. Hood Observations
• Mount Hood Real Time Images
• Avalanche danger forecast:  
• Northwest Avalanche Center
• Mt Hood

Route Information: South Side (Hogsback)

• Gain: 5,235 ft
• Round Trip:  8 miles
• Activity: Basic Glacier Climb
• Difficulty:  Strenuous 1, Technical 2
• Season: May, June
• Source: https://www.mountaineers.org/explore/routes-places/mount-hood-south-side
• Existing tracks:  
• Peakbagger
• GPX on May 21, 2017
• Trip Report

• Caltopo Route: https://caltopo.com/m/VQS2

 

 

 

 

 

Misc 

• Videos  (many more on youtube): 
• Mount Hood: Climbing Oregon's Highest Peak
• Oregon Field Guide: Mt. Hood-Climbing Oregon's Highest Peak
• Climbing Mt. Hood - Key Points to Know Before the Climb
• Mt Hood Hogsback Summit Pearly Gates 2017 
• Mount Hood May 2017 - Summit via Old Chute
• Mt. Hood Summit Climb - Pearly Gates Rout on June 22nd 2016
• Mount Hood Winter Ascent January 2017
• Mount Hood--Soute Route 4/15-16/17
• Mt Hood / Bergschrund / Pearly Gates (1,2,3)
• Nightmare on Mount Hood (2007)
• 1986 Mt. Hood Climbing Disaster

• Trip Reports:
• Mountaineers
• Dec 31, 2017
• Jul 19/20, 2016
• Jul 17, 2016
• Jul 16, 2016
• May 10, 2016
• May 3, 2016
• May 6, 2015
• Jun 2, 2014
• May 27, 2014
• May 19, 2014

• CascadeClimbers
• 8/10/2017
• 7/8/2017
• 2/11/2017
• 3/18/2016
• 5/4/2015
• 6/29/2016
• 6/12/2016
• 3/17/2016
• 1/25/2016
• 12/30/2015
• 11/29/2015
• 11/28/2015
• 4/26/2015
• 3/7/2015
• 1/31/2015
• 1/25/2015
• 6/22/2014
• 5/24/2014
• 5/17/2014
• 5/1/2014
• 11/20/2004
• NWHikers
• 12/31/17
• 5/20/2017
• 3/19/17

Notes

• The South Side Route, which begins at Timberline Lodge parking lot (5,924 ft.), is the shortest and by far the most popular route to the summit. Mt. Hood’s popularity and dubious distinction as an “easy non-technical hike” or as a “walk up” is a misconception that tends to increase the number of deaths on the mountain. These inexperienced climbers in conjunction with severe weather (which can move in quickly) or the ever present danger of avalanches, rock and ice fall account for most accidents. 
• Climbing to the summit means entering the Mount Hood Wilderness Area which requires a free, non-quota, self-issued wilderness permit. These are available at the Timberline day lodge “Climbers’ Cave” and all trailheads within the wilderness area. The Climbers’ Cave does not have a door and is open year round, 24/7. The Climbers’ Cave does have bathroom facilities available to climbers. 
• Mt. Hood can be climbed any time of year, depending on your chosen route. However, climbers using the South Side Routes should consider climbing from mid-April to mid-July, depending on route conditions. Earlier and there is an increased risk of avalanches; any later and there is an increased risk of landslides, rock fall, ice fall and open crevasses. Weather and mountain conditions should be the ultimate indicator of when to climb.