Thursday, October 12, 2017

Route: Ingalls Peak - South Ridge (Central Cascades)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

  • Trailhead: 
    • Address: Cle Elum, WA 98922
    • Elevation: 4,300 ft
    • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
    • Direction:  "Drive on I-90 to about 1 mi east Cle Elum, then go northeast on SR 970 about 5 mi to 0.5 mi past the Teanaway River Bridge. Turn left on the Teanaway River Road and continue 23 mi to the road end parking area at 4,243 ft, about 1 mi beyond the DeRoux Campground (Forest Road 9737). Car camping is available at the DeRoux Campground and other campgrounds on the Teanaway River Road"

Route Information: South Ridge

  • Route Photos from trip reports: 



Misc 

  • Notes: 
    • Protection: Normal rack to 2" with a set of nuts. Larger hexes work well in the serpentine cracks. Small rack to 2" and stoppers worked great. Slings are recommended as the route tends to zigzag. A 60M rope is required. Bring webbing as the rap anchors may need replacing at times. Standard rock equipment and chocks to 1.5 inches.
    • Climbing is on generally good rock with moderate exposure.
    • Rope leaders should have class 5 leading experience, as the red slab requires protection and has several tricky moves in the 5.2-5.3 range with a 5.6 variation, if desired.
    • This climb is typically done as a one-day climb with a 6-7am start.
    • This peak is best climbed in the summer months after the rock is snow-free and dryed. Once again be aware that the area is popular with campers and climbers alike. It is best done during the week.
    • Camping is allowed in the area without permit but it is located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area, so wilderness rules apply. Camping is not allowed at Ingalls Lake. There are designated campsites along the main trail on the way up to the lake.
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