Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Route: Mount Logan - Fremont Glacier (North Cascades)

Mountain Information:

Driving Directions:

Route Information: Fremont Glacier

  • Ascend from Mountaineers: 
    • Ascend on a gradual traverse for 2 mi northward, around a broad ridge, then up to the gentle Fremont Glacier at 8,000 ft. Terrain is open heather and high alpine meadow and rock fields. Ascend glacier northeast towards the middle of the shallow cirque formed by Mount Logan's true summit and middle Peak (at the south end of the cirque). Ascend a snow finger up the middle, or left-middle, of the rock face of the cirque and scramble broken rock up and left to the low pass in the summit ridge. Cross to east side of summit ridge and traverse north for 0.3 mi on generally solid rock and boulders, staying below ridge crest. A final short, steep rock scramble leads to summit.

Misc 

  • Notes: 
    • This is to be considered the Standard route by many up Mount Logan. It consists of a long approach, glacier travel, and a class 4 scramble at the end of it. This route had some of the best alpine climbing I've ever had, what one would call a 5 star route. But I will admit that it will not be easy and usually takes between 3 and 4 days to complete.
    • The snow finger may melt out in late season, leaving a bergschrund problem
    • The traverse along the summit ridge varies between Class 2, 3 and 4. Several sections are steep and exposed, and some may want a belay.
    • Alternative Approach: Drive to Lake Chelan. Take ferry to Stehekin. Sign in and get permit at Stehekin Ranger Station. Take shuttle bus and/or walk 18.5 mi to Park Creek trailhead (2,300 ft). Hike 8 mi to Park Creek Pass (6,100 ft) and continue thru pass to off-trail camp at 6,350 ft.
    • Backcountry permits are required for camping which you'll most likely need them for a cross-country zone. They can be picked up at the NPS office in Sedro-Wooley, Marblemount or Stehekin.
    • There is also camping at the Colonial Creek Trailhead (Thunder Creek Trailhead) which costs $12 per night and is based on a first come first serve bases. 
    • The Best months to climb Mount Logan are July through September, although you might be able to sneak in a October ascend. Be warned that if it is a unusual amount of the snow that year, I recommend waiting until at least late July. The standard route can be quite treacherous if snow covered due to the high exposure in a few places along the ridge to the summit.
    • Get yourself to Park Creek Pass either from Stehekin or the North Cascades Highway. From the pass, take the trail about 1/3 mile down the Thunder Creek side, to the first stream crossing. From here, head cross-country through heather and scrubby trees, on an upward traverse. Direction of travel should be NE towards the Fremont Glacier. You'll enter into an open talus-filled basin below the southern edges of the glacier. This is all fairly open country with little to prevent travel. Pretty typical cascades alpine slopes and rockslides. Climb up to 8,000' to the bottom edge of the Fremont Glacier near its southern edge. A good bivi spot with a rock wall exists where the logical climber route reaches the glacier.
    • Camping is not permitted at Park Creek Pass. Other nice bivy spots with year round water can be found by following the trail 1/3 mile North from Park Creek Pass and investigating the meadows near a first stream crossing. The best one on Mount Logan is near Point 8248 just near the edge of the Fremont Glacier.
    • Whether the weather is bad or not, head literally north east from here. If visibility is poor, head a little more to your right to stay closer to the rock walls. If visibility is fine, it will be quite obvious which way you have to travel to a part of the route people call "The Hogsback". At first glance it is an amazing formation on the mountain which has a almost perfect semi circle going from one edge of the mountain to the other. The part of the Hogsback that is on the left and is the higher one is the main way you want to go. If you reach a rock wall without traveling up this, you are off route.
    • On the edge of the Fremont Glacier and near Point 8248 there is a great place to pitch your tent, or simply a good place to cook food and filter water.
    • Once on the glacier, proceed NE below a prominent rock tower that is part of the middle summit. The glacier itselff is fairly low angle and seldom has any crevasse issues. Head north and uphill along the glacier, avoiding any small openings. From the highest point on the glacier, use a small 'hogsback' feature to gain the rocky crest. note how the 'hogsback' features and glaciel topography leading to both summits is similar. Make sure you are climbing the peak intend to climb. 
    • The harder (4th class) sections of the rock portion are the first and last bits. Getting from the snow to the ridge crest involves a potentially dicey step-across, then a leftward ramp. Follow ledges and ramps along the crest and on both sides of the ridgeline. Blocky third and fourth class leads to the summit. Time of travel would likely be about an hour on the glacier and 45 minutes on the rock. 
    • You come across at least 1 false summits before obtaining the real summit. At the false summit you have to now carefully descend a class 4 move to get down to the gap between the two summits.
    • Once you get down, stay on the eastern side of the ridge which leads you to the final summit scramble which may be considered class 3-4, but with great holds. From here you crawl over to the summit. Congratulations, you earned the moment of success!
    • Mount Logan can be climbed via Douglas Glacier or Banded Glacier
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    Route: Silver Peak

    Mountain Information:

    Driving Directions:

    • Trailhead: FR 9070 intersection with PCT
    • Co-ordinates: 47.3635, -121.4225
    • Elevation:  2956 ft
    • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
    • Directions 

      • 1) Drive east along I-90 to Exit 54 ("Hyak" exit).
      • 2) At the first intersection (stop sign) located on the west side of I-90, continue straight (south). On the other side of the intersection, the road becomes known as Hyak Drive East.
      • 3) As the road winds through the Hyak ski area and then passes a wasterwater facility, Hyak Drive East becomes known as Forest Road 9070.
      • 4) Continue following Forest Road 9070 until its intersection with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). The PCT intersection is unmarked. However, for reference purposes, the PCT trail junction occurs approximately 5.5 miles from I-90, in a clearcut area at approximately 3800' elevation. The location of this trail junction is also known as Windy Pass.
      • 5) Park on the side of Forest Road 9070 wherever available, making certain no vehicles block the road.

    • I-90 Road Condition:   
    • Weather forecast
    • Avalanche danger forecast:  

    Route Information: South Route

    • Gain: 2100 ft
    • Round Trip:  5.6 miles per WTA, 6.5 miles per summit post
    • Difficulty: 

    Misc 

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    Monday, July 17, 2017

    Route:Sahale Peak - Quien Sabe Glacier (North Cascades)

    Mountain Information:

    Driving Directions:

    • Trailhead: 
    • Address: Cascade River Rd, Marblemount, WA 98267
    • Elevation: 3,220 ft
    • Pass:  Northwest Forest Pass
    • Directions: 
      • Old Diamond Mine Road from Mountaineers: "Take I-5 to just north of Mount Vernon, then go east on SR 20 (North Cascades Highway) to Marblemount. Sign in at Ranger Station and get permit. Continue east on Cascade River Road about 21.7 mi to the old Diamond Mine Road (fork in road about 1.5 mi from the end of Cascade River Road, 3,220 ft). There is limited parking at the fork."
      • Cascade Pass Trailhead from SummitPost: "Drive North on I-5 until you get to Arlington which you take a right at exit 208 onto highway 530. The highway briefly takes a left in down town Arlington onto highway 9 which a few seconds later be sure to turn right back onto highway 530 east to Darrington. At Darrington where the road pretty much ends you take a left onto highway 530 which goes north. In about 19 miles the highway ends, take a right onto highway 20 towards Marblemount. In about 7.5 you arrive at the city of Marblemount. After passing a few gas stations the highway curves, be sure to go strait which goes onto the Cascade River Road. This road takes you all the way to the trailhead of Sahale (Cascade Pass trailhead) which is at Mile Marker 23. Keep in mind that after mile marker 10 the road becomes gravel and washes out almost every year at some point. The last 2 miles are paved but is a little steep. The trailhead itself has a nice oval shaped parking lot with a bathroom.":
    • Food
    • Road condition
    • Weather forecast
    • Avalanche danger forecast:  

    Route Information: Quien Sabe Glacier

    • Gain: 5,780 ft
    • Round Trip:  10 miles
    • Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb, Strenuous 3, Technical 2
    • Season: July, August, September
    • Source: https://www.mountaineers.org/explore/routes-places/sahale-peak-quien-sabe-glacier
    • Existing tracks:  
    • Caltopo Route: https://caltopo.com/m/H6MC
    • Approach from Mountaineers: 
      • From the fork, walk about 1 mi on the old mine road to where the trail leaves the road sharply right and steeply up. Follow this steep, well worn, and obvious trail to Boston Basin. Camp in Boston Basin (6,200 ft).
    • Ascend from Mountaineers: 
      • The easier route follows the left side of the Quien Sabe Glacier to the top of the left side then traverses right along the base of the rock face below Sharkfin Tower. Continue traversing until the Glacier begins to steepen toward the Col.
      • The alternate ascent is significantly shorter and much more direct. Scramble from camp to the right side of the Glacier. Work through the crevasses of the lower section of the glacier (up to 45° and very exposed).
      • The two ascent routes merge about half way up the Quien Sabe Glacier to the Boston-Sahale Col. From the col traverse right to the summit. Take ice ax and crampons for short but exposed snow traverse on Col to summit block. Scramble loose rock to summit (class 3).

    Misc 

    • Videos  (many more on youtube): 
    • Other Links: 
    • Notes: 
      • Water Sources: There is at least one tarn on the way up Sahale Arm, which you should definitely filter this water. On the way to Cascade Pass there are a few small creeks. If your willing to extend your trip, Doubtful Lake is another good source for water. Also if your lucky there may we water melting off of the Sahale Glacier near the bottom. And of course the remaining snow on the mountain.
      • Camping: For overnight Camping you need a Back Country Permit which are free of cost, but is based on a first come first serve bases and may run out. One can be obtained though most of the ranger stations in the North Cascades, the most common place to obtain one is in Marblemount. There is no camping at Cascade Pass because the National Park Service is trying to restore its fragile vegetation. The best camping place on the standard route is near the Sahale Glacier which is about 5.7 miles in (7,600 feet high). There are also some camp grounds along the Cascade River Road which the closest one is Johannesburg camp near the trailhead. For those going up the Quien Sabe route (Boston Basin) there is camping in the basin itself.
      • When to Climb: This peak is best done June though September. During the early season you have both avalanche danger and a longer approach to get to the mountain due to the road being snow covered. The snow pack plays a big roll in when the road is opened, it usually ranges from April to June. When ever it's gated off in early season its often closed at mile marker 20 which is 3 miles from the trailhead. If the snow pack is mild, you may consider bringing a bike for the way down.
      • Equipment: Standard glacier gear-fluke or picket in early season, screws in late season. A small rock rack for the summit may be useful.
    • Topo maps: CalTopo map.
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    Thursday, July 6, 2017

    Route: Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys (North Cascades)

    Mountain Information:

    Driving Directions:

    Route Information: Fisher Chimneys

    • Gain: 6,750 ft
    • Round Trip:  17 miles
    • Difficulty: Basic Glacier Climb
    • Season: July, August
    • Source: https://www.mountaineers.org/explore/routes-places/mt-shuksan-fisher-chimneys
    • Existing tracks:  
    • Caltopo Route: https://caltopo.com/m/NAHQ
    • Route information from WTA: 
      • Approach: The first high camp is at 6400 ft. We took a break here, but moved up higher to a camp at ~7600 feet to give us an early start on the rib. There is a very large flat area here, perfect spot to spend the night if you’re up for the extra elevation. This camp also allows for more solitude than the lower camps, as we were the only group camped here. No running water so we melted snow, without filtering.
      • Climbing: We roped up and stayed on the west side of the glacier. The east side of the glacier is more heavily crevassed, but as of Sunday, there was a large distance (300-400 feet+) from the climbing route to any openings on the east side of the glacier. There is one large crevasse right at the top of Hell’s Highway, but it’s obvious and easily avoidable. We ascended to ~8600 ft and went to the obvious notch where the route begins. There's enough room for 6 people, I hip belayed my followers up to the notch. I transitioned to rock climbing but did not wear rock shoes. The SE rib is 5.4, positive handholds, and airy. 2 pitches with a 60 meter rope because we simul climbed it. I wish I owned tricams because those would have been helpful. I brought small nuts, small cams to 0.75, and 10 singles and 4 doubles.
      • Descent: From the summit there's an obvious rap station climbers left of the gully. But we scrambled down to the next rap station. 4 raps with a single 60 m should do it but we had two 60 m ropes so we were leap-frogging, sending the second rope with the second climber. The second rap traverses the gully and then the two other raps finish climber’s right of the gully. The fourth rap station we set up a double rope rappel to get us to safer ground. 

    Misc 

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